Thursday, December 18, 2014

Buying a New Car vs. a Second Hand Car

              Being an auto enthusiast, it’s very easy to get drawn into any conversation containing a set of 4 wheels. Then there is always someone in the group discussion, asking the question – “which car should I buy?”. 
Just like a decision tree, this leads to the next question – “Should I go in for a new car or a second hand car?” 
After responding to quite a few friends, going along with them to Second hand dealers since they wanted a second opinion. This prompted me to pen my thoughts on the advice I generally give. 
Let us have some fun by creating a discussion in a role play format. Let’s assume this character is Jerry. 
Jerry(J): Hi Nikhil, I have been thinking about buying a car. Not sure which one though. I am in the process of getting my license. 
Nikhil(N): That’s great. Do you have a preference on which car do u want, as in what type – sedan, hatch etc. 
J: Oh!!! (Looks quizzical and amused) … I am still learning … and not sure what are you telling me. (Please note, I was not telling him, but asking him ) 
N: (I take a deep breath and exhale slowly) Dude, before I can get into the cars to buy, I would need to know how comfortable are you, actually driving. 
J: I am learning, I should get my license in about a month from now! 
N: Great, good luck for the exam 
Then the conversation drifts off to his driving school experience and then back to the conversation at hand 
J: So which car? 
N: What is your budget? 
J: I haven’t yet decided… but about the same … about 4 to 5 lacs at max. What are the options. I have heard about the Hyundai i10, the MS Celerio, and Hyundai Grand i10 as well… (and a bunch of other names ) 
N: do you want a petrol or diesel? 
J: I don’t know… what should I do? What do you recommend? 
N: Well.. ( I am thinking about what’s the best way to help my friend and give him the right advice ) … ( then I launch into my sermon ) .. J, first you must decide what is your daily commute and what do you intend on doing… and how much driving do you plan to do in a month and year as well. Then it depends on your confidence level as well on driving. Is this your first car in the family ? Do you already have a car which you were using ( invariably Dad’s car ) and now plan on buying your own. How many people are you planning to carry when you drive it – like mostly 2 passengers and sometimes about 4 people etc. 
J: Man !!!... I have not given it such a deep thought. I need to think. I will get back 
N: ( Proactively) J, if its your first car, and the first car in the family, then I would actually suggest a 2nd hand car to get a little confidence on the road conditions before buying a new car. 

This is where the conversation becomes a little too much for me to capture…. So I’d rather just pen down my thoughts 
As a petro-head, I take great interest in what is happening with the car, the finer noises and nuances of the car as a whole. 

For me, it’s important that we understand the car, and treat it well. I would love to go on and on about how to listen to the noises she makes (Yes ! every car is always referred to as a “she” ), how she handles and the mileage she returns. The mileage is a final outcome of her health. 

For this, let us take a step back and go and help Jerry. 

There are 2 distinct groups who have different ways of perceiving things. 
1st Group – Those who are buying a car for the first time, the first car in the family 
2nd Group – Those who have had a car in the family and know driving, and this is a new addition to the garage. 

Advice for the 1st group: 

Go in for a cheap second hand car, and use it for about a max of 2 years before buying a new car. 

In most cases, the driver has just about acquired a license and not a very confident to drive in different types of traffic conditions and roads as well. 
The primary reasons for this recommendation are: 
1. The novice becomes an expert and understands the car, on a relatively less expensive car to maintain 
2. Any scratches and dents can be easily fixed and won’t cost a bomb! 
3. It wouldn’t hurt as much in case there is any major damage as well 
4. Clutch plate replacement might be due, and would cost relatively lesser than in a new car 
5. The driver can use it for a few long distances (inter-city) and get user to highway driving conditions too. 
6. Once he / she is confident and understands how the car works and its basic maintenance requirements, it would be far more easier to maintain the new car 
7. The driver would have a higher maturity while maintaining the new car, resulting in a better driving experience and lower maintenance costs. 
8. Simple things like, cleaning the ac air filters , checking the engine oil, brake fluids, changing fuses can be done by the driver himself rather than take it to a service center to get conned. 

There are other nuances of driving, that the new driver can practice and refine his style, like; 
1. Judging traffic conditions to slow down saving fuel 
2. Better control on the clutch and lesser wear during bumper to bumper traffic conditions 
3. Understanding the difference between highway driving and city driving 
4. Understanding the difference between day and night time driving 
5. About the right light beam to use while driving ( High beam and Low beam) 
6. Eye coordination between the 3 rear view mirrors 
7. Better judgment on the speed of the traffic, especially the oncoming traffic when on highways 
8. Understanding how the car behaves when the tyre air pressure is lower than the recommended pressure 
The list can go on, but these are the basic ingredients that go into becoming a better driver along with taking car of your car. 
The most important thing, understanding and respecting Traffic Rules 

Advice for the 2nd Group: 
This group generally knows about a car, and have a car in the family. Here the approach is slightly different. They are the guys who have more or less shortlisted the vehicle they want to buy, are generally looking for an opinion or advice on certain models and variants. 

For this group, I have devised a set of questions, which would help in making a purchase 
1. How many people are going to be riding in it, generally 
2. What is the core purpose of the vehicle (office commute, weekend commute, only for holidays etc?) 
3. What’s the general daily distance being traversed 
4. What car do they already own; like if they have a hatchback, do you want to go in for a sedan or SUV 
5. Petrol or Diesel 
6. Trim level preferred – specific variant and their advantages or more specifically their Value for money proposition 

The list can go on, like I said earlier, but this should help narrow down the search. 
Every car lover has a different perspective, it would be wrong to put them into any global bucket or stereo-type them. That’s the reason, I have not given any recommendation about any vehicle in this article. 

Readers can always contact me for any specific queries.

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Windows – To Roll Them Down Or Not


Windows – To Roll Them Down Or Not

People have often asked me, if I keep my windows rolled down or not, and why I roll them down.
There is a general tendency to reach for the AC as soon as you start the car, which I have strongly debated against.
This is my view point after doing some practical research on my car, stretched over a distance of 12 kms ( office to home ) and a drive time of 30 to 45 mins with top speed of 45kmph ( city traffic ) in temperatures of about 30+ ° C
I have done this drive over a period of 20 days and clocked each reading, both ways, in multiple settings, i.e. with the AC on, and with windows rolled down, at the same time period of the journey from Home – to – Work and Back Home.
The Gyan behind the debate and then the tabulated results

Just to Quote, there was this study done by the Society of Automobile Engineers ( SAE) which found that driving with the AC on and windows rolled up, actually only reduced the fuel consumption by 10% while driving with your windows down, decreased the fuel efficiency by almost 20%.
Hard to know how did they calculate and benchmark the fuel efficiency in the first place

That’s why I did my own benchmarking on my Hyundai i20, standard 1400cc Diesel engine.
As a general inference from the data I collected, I found that driving consistently over speeds of 60 to 70Kmph, then it’s advisable to roll up the windows and turn on the AC.
Reason, the engine is already powered up, and is capable of running the AC unit, without having to produce additional power just for the AC compressor. Add to this, at higher speeds, the drag (wind resistance) would be higher if the windows were rolled down, since the wind would enter the vehicle rather than flowing outwards. Besides at higher speeds  the higher drag could destabilize the vehicle compromising safety.
2nd scenario, if you are cruising in the city, like the testing I did, then it would be advisable to roll down the windows and let in some air. At these low speeds, the engine develops lesser power, which isn’t enough to run the compressor. If the AC is turned on, then there is an additional load on the engine directly resulting in additional fuel consumption. At these lower speeds, the drag coefficient isn’t high enough to alter the stability and fuel efficiency of the vehicle
While you guys would still argue about the best option, the trick is to optimize both situations and alternate between them.

Condition
Week
Day
Kms
Drive Time
Avg Speed
Fuel Consumed
Inference
AC is ON, Windows are Rolled UP
1
1
24
0:45:00
32
14
Turned on the Ac as soon as I started the Car, till I entered the office parking and same while returning
2
24
0:52:00
27.69
3
24
0:31:00
46.45
4
24
1:05:00
22.15
5
24
1:10:00
20.57
Ac = OFF
Windows = Rolled Down
2
6
24
0:51:00
28.24
17.5
Never turned on the Ac throughout the drive
7
24
0:40:00
36
8
24
0:50:00
28.8
9
24
0:48:00
30
10
24
1:02:00
23.23
Onward: AC = OFF
Return: AC = ON
3
11
24
0:45:00
32
16.5
Slightly better than the below figures since the onward drive is slightly uphill, and most a third of the return journey was cruising downhill
12
24
0:55:00
26.18
13
24
0:50:00
28.8
14
24
0:52:00
27.69
15
24
0:44:00
32.73
Onward: AC = ON
Return: AC = OFF
4
16
24
1:03:00
22.86
15
Very Close to the   mileage with AC on, because the Ac was turned on immediately on turning on the Vehicle and the road was uphill as well.



Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Know Your Tyre - Basic Safety



Understanding your Tyre and Basic Safety

In the interest of the Discussion I was having with a colleague about tyres and the pressure that needs to be maintained.
I thought I might as well pen down my learning and pass it to the guys who would like to know the same.
Article dedicated to my Hyundai i20

  



Past studies have shown that simple tasks like maintaining proper tyre pressure, driving within the load limits, basic tyre inspection for cuts and cracks or irregularities are some of the most important things you can do which will certainly go a long way in avoiding a tyre failure and resultant accidents.
These activities carried out regularly, along with other activities will go a long way in
1.       Improving the handling
2.       Avoid Breakdowns and Accidents
3.       Improve Fuel Efficiency
4.       Increase the life of your Tyres

1.       Temperature Resistance
2.       Traction
3.       Thread Wear
4.       Max Load Capacity
5.       Speed Symbol
6.       Manufacturing Date
















Tyre Markings – Know Your Tyre


These letters indicates a tyre's resistance to heat.
From highest to lowest, a tyre's resistance to heat is graded as "A", "B", or "C".
Symbol
Area
A
Hot Area
B
Normal Area
B
Cold Area

This letter indicates a tyre's ability to stop on wet pavement.
A higher graded tyre should allow you to stop your car on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tyre with a lower grade.
Traction is graded from highest to lowest as "AA","A", "B", and "C".



Traction Indicator



Number indicates the maximum load that can be carried by the tyre. 
Symbol indicates the maximum Speed at which a tyre is designed to be driven for extended periods of time.

Code
km/h
Code
km/h
Code
km/h
Code
km/h
A1
5
B
50
L
120
U
200
A2
10
C
60
M
130
H
210
A3
15
D
65
N
140
V
240
A4
20
E
70
P
150
Z
over 240
A5
25
F
80
Q
160
W
270
A6
30
G
90
R
170
(W)
over 270
A7
35
J
100
S
180
Y
300
A8
40
K
110
T
190
(Y)
over 300
Speed Indicator Chart

Code
Weight -Kgs
Code
Weight -Kgs
Code
Weight -Kgs
Code
Weight -Kgs
Code
Weight -Kgs
60
250 
74
375 
88
560 
102
850 
116
1,250 
61
257 
75
387 
89
580 
103
875 
117
1,285 
62
265 
76
400 
90
600 
104
900 
118
1,320 
63
272 
77
412 
91
615 
105
925 
119
1,360 
64
280 
78
425 
92
630 
106
950 
120
1,400 
65
290 
79
437 
93
650 
107
975 
121
1,450 
66
300 
80
450 
94
670 
108
1,000 
122
1,500 
67
307 
81
462 
95
690 
109
1,030 
123
1,550 
68
315 
82
475 
96
710 
110
1,060 
124
1,600 
69
325 
83
487 
97
730 
111
1,090 
125
1,650 
70
335 
84
500 
98
750 
112
1,120 


71
345 
85
515 
99
775 
113
1,150 


72
355 
86
530 
100
800 
114
1,180 


73
365 
87
545 
101
825 
115
1,215 


Load Carrying Capacity Indicator

Tyres carry a DOT number on the sidewall that gives a production date.  
Since the year 2000 the numbers consist of 4 digits instead of 3. 
The first two digits indicate the calendar week of production and the next two the year of production.
Eg: 2413 – the tyre was manufactured in the 24th week of 2013.





For tyres manufactured in the 1990's there is a little triangle ∆ after the DOT code. Eg: 4 2 8 ∆  - the tyre was manufactured in the 42nd week of 1998.

Ensure Proper Tyre Pressure. Just looking at the tyre’s wouldn’t suffice, your eyes might deceive you.
Rely on a proper Gauge to check tyre pressure.
Tip: Ensure you check the air pressure every time you fill fuel. Any slight pull to either side, is an indicator of tyres not being at their optimum pressure.




Tyre rotation or rotating tyres is the practice of moving automobile wheels and tyres from one position on the car, to another, to ensure even tyre wear.
Tyre wear is uneven for any number of reasons. Even tyre wear is desirable to maintain consistent performance in the vehicle and to extend the overall life of a set of tyres.



Tyre Rotation Pattern

By design, the weight on the front and rear axles differs which causes uneven wear
With the majority of cars being front-engine cars,
·         The front axle typically bears more of the weight.
·         Front wheel drive vehicles also have the differential in front, adding to the weight, with a typical weight distribution of no better than 60:40
·         This means, all else being equal, the front tyres wear out at almost twice the rate of the rear wheels, especially when factoring the additional stress that braking puts on the front tyres
Thus, tyre rotation needs to occur more frequently for front-wheel drive vehicles.
For rear wheel drive vehicles, the weight distribution between front and back approaches 50:50.

Always check for Tyre Wear and Thread Depth. You can easily do a visual check which is also called the 1 Rupee Coin Test
Illustrated below in the diagram.
Insert the coin between the threads, and if the Rupaih in hindi is hidden, you are good to go, else if its visible, its Time to Change the Tyre.
Never go in for Re-Threaded Tyres



3 Golden Rules
1.       Inflate
a.       Check your tyre pressure Regularly
2.       Rotate
a.       Rotate the tyres every 8000kms
3.       Inspect
a.       Routinely look for signs of Damage and Thread Wear